dialing it in.
Hi everyone. I have been trying to get the RB470 the exact number as called out and dial it in on the DRO. It usually takes quite a bit of fiddling to get that last thou but to make good box joints that seems to be the tolerance needed ... one to two thousandths. Stiction seems to be the problem as there is just enough spring in the wire that when the stiction lets loose the RB will jump four to 10 thousandths. And so back and forth I go until I nail it. Sometimes I get a bit of drift when I start up the router when the spring in the wire moves the beam because the vibration has made it easier for things to move. Sometimes that has to wait until I contact the wood and then the sliding box moves.
I have a good PTFE dry lube on the sliding rail guides and, once moving, everything is smooth. So next I tried the micro adjust but the torque created from the screw advance being off center from the point of connection to the box beam still leaves enough spring that stiction rears its ugly head again. I was thinking that the micro adjust would be much more stable if it connected at the bottom and the top of the box beam to remove the torque spring effect I am seeing. Any thoughts or has anyone else had this problem and found a solution? Am I expecting too much
John (really trying for that last thousandth)
With the DRO it should be fairly easy to position a cut within +/- .003 or 1/333" without the micro-adjuster. Stop when you are that close and your joint should be a good fit. With the micro-adjuster you should be able to work within +/- .001 or 1/1000" and the micro-adjuster when locked should keep sliding bar movement within +/- .002 or 1/500". That is very close work for woodworking.
I use the micro-adjuster for dovetails and with these tolerances I get a piston fit on all pins after initial adjustment for tightness of fit.
You may want to tune up your machine as follows:
1. Loosen the top set screws (2 on each side located in t-track)
2. Remove the front rules or white boards
3. Base plate and router should be mounted on the machine
4. Center the sliding bar on machine
5. Loosen the 6 button head screws behind the rules
6. Tighten the 6 screws while exerting very slight downward pressure
7. Twist the sliding bar to verify that there is no play
8. Loosen 2 screws on the wire tension slider
9. Loosen then tighten the wire tension, but not excessively
10. Push on the end of sliding bar
11. It should take 12 to 15 lbs of pressure to move the bar
12. If the wire becomes frayed then replace it
A frayed wire can be the source of problems
If you still have issues, discuss with The Craftsman Gallery
Thank you for the reply and sorry I took so long to get back on the board. I was finely able to get back out to the shop and fettle the routerboss as suggested. It did help but I was still getting too much slop in the adjustment using the micro adjuster. I looked over the micro adjuster and how it worked and found that the difference in the T-track and the t-track slide area on the micro adjuster was different by about .2". I added some soft brass shims to take up that slop and now I have very fine control. I can control it down to as small as the DRO will show.
Lewis, thank you for your reply and help.
Thanks Lewis -- and a suggestion for getting proper wire tension
I'm just getting back to the shop after substantial hiatus, and found that I was faced with the same stiction problems -- new to me, but similar to those of Solomani. I will re-adjust according to your instructions, but the part about "It should take 12 to 15 lbs of pressure to move the bar" leaves me feeling uncertain. My wire tension is strong enough that it sounds a note when plucked. How about a real short video on adjusting the wire tension featuring the sound of a properly-tensioned wire when plucked? (You might put in a too loose or too tight sound as well.) ((You are, of course, also free to say "Good heavens, if it sounds a note it's much too tight!!"))